Winter seems to have slid into the space that’s usually occupied by autumn at this time of year. A dense mist has fallen across the mountain, light has been all but extinguished, temperatures have plummeted. The new season’s rain has made the ground ooze and great globules of mud shape themselves between my toes as I walk wondering what there might be for lunch. Leaves drip goblet sized tear drops. A black redstart sings a rusty tune, a robin half-heartedly offers a few notes from a nearby elder whose leaves have turned a jaundiced yellow. The sky is no longer able to support itself.

In the orto (vegetable garden), a few tough skinned tomatoes blacken on brown stalks, the basil has bolted, the salads all eaten. The soil which was bare a week ago has been reclaimed since the rain, by winter edibles. Into a bowl, some chickweed, (Stellaria media), spiny sowthistle (Sonchus asper), parsley (Petroselinum crispum), and wild chard (Beta vulgaris).

Back in the kitchen, the rain has washed the leaves, so without ado the water for the papadelle is put on and salt is added. Into a padella (deep sided pan) a couple of ribbons of oil is added, along with some chopped garlic (1 clove per person as a guide). A filet of anchovy from a jar popped in too, along with .a pinch of peperoncino (Capiscum annum) - dried chilli from the summer. Together, they are stirred and the anchovy melted for a quick minute. Once done, they are set aside, half a coffee cup of water is added to the pan into which the harvested leaves are added. The water boils, the leaves soften (about 3 minutes) then the reserved garlic and anchovy are added. A handheld liquidiser pureés the greens. The now cooked pappadelle is drained and added to the mix in the pan. More olive oil is added. Lunch is served.

Chickweed is the key ingredient here, but if your waysides and garden is not producing sowthistle nor chard, consider adding dandelion leaves (taraxacum) and/or sorrel (Rumex acetosella). Anything from the shops - a bit of spinach, a celery leaf, parsley, beetroot top could be used instead.